The Spanish Road

Mi Ultimo Dia en Espana

2008-04-19T14:31:00.012-05:00

from my journal on 4/12:
"Well, this is it. What have I learned? Mucho. What do I have left to learn? Mucho, mucho mas. Thank You, sweet Jesus."

from Mike Howertons' Miles to Cross:

"I don't know all the answers. I don't. Can one person really know? Can there be certainty despite confusion? But I do know God, and because of HIM:

I say life's for living.

Road's for traveling.

Eye's for wondering.

Soul's for soaring.

Bag's for sleeping.

Heart's for loving.

God, please don't allow me too much success and ease as the devil's advocate. Please don't allow my love of ale and travel disqualify me from a role in Your delight. Do I really have to become a safe, boring Christian in order to love You? Tell me what my heart longs to hear... that following YOU well is the only true adventure left."

"Have I climbed mountains of experience and trekked miles down the twisting road of life, only to return devoid of anything tangible, fulfilling? Am I returning to the States with mementos of truth notched in my belt?

What do I know?

I know that it is more important to focus on the journey than the destination. Each mile has a wealth of beauty, and new unexplored groves of trees, and unnoticed shades of green, rocks, hills, a bend in the road that tickles the belly at high speed. Destinations are secondary. They are important, but not most important. Like goals, they are necessarily discarded once achieved. The destination, then, is temporary, but the journey goes on.

I know the mystics were right... there is a mystery in the mundane. God is in the moment-by-moment. He is vastly nearer than most people think.

I know there is more romance here than I ever thought possible... quite enough to keep the Wordsworths and Poes and Falstaffs and Howertons happy for lifetime upon lifetime.

And I know, like sunshine on the back of your neck in July, love beats down upon this place without ceasing.

The bit you play on this stage is of infinite importance. There is a purpose. I'm not sure I know mine yet. But I'm after it with all I've got."

"...somewhere it hit me- joy. Like a doule-shot of espresso, my heart pounding in my throat, I wanted to run, so I did; I wanted to sing, so I did; I wanted to fly, and maybe I did, but it was because I was thankful, I was so thankful, I AM so thankful. I couldn't stop saying thank You, thank You, thank You, God, thank You for loving this wandering pilgrim and for loving all wandering pilgrims, and experiencing only His love back, more and more, a Divine Yes, Yes, Yes, affirming love, affirming life, affirming myself, Yes, even affirming the journey, because in the final analysis, it all works together for His glory, Yes, and can I live for His glory? Yes, and can I point others toward His glory? Yes. And Yes. And YES.

My heart is bursting, and it's all I can do to keep my feet on the ground. Life.

Is there anything else?"

Thank you, all of you, for making this great adventure possible. It was a time in my life that I will never forget.

Final Days in the Place I Love

2008-04-19T14:16:00.005-05:00

from my journal on 4/11:

"Raining again. It was raining when Katie left, and I guess Spain is sad to see me go, too. I'm at La Mallorquina for a final round of cafe con leche, napolitana de chocolate, y bocadillo de jamon y queso. Clint is so right about coffee- it warms the hands, the heart, the soul. I love it, and I can't wait to share some of the Spanish coffee I just bought with him. "

"The band I love so much was on the Metro from Cuzco to Tribunal, pounding out "Tequila" and other upbeat, brassy songs with horns and an upright bass. It made me happy to be alive and difficult to keep my feet still. I gladly gave them some money. They earned it. I also passed the gentle old violinist who sits in Sol. I listened and watched for a moment. He is so peaceful when he plays, and you can see that he loves it, like he is home. The music loves him back, and the notes wrap around him lovingly. They embrace me, too, and I am glad."

"A deep sorrow is threatening to settle into my bones, but joy beats it back. The joy of experience, of adventure and love, of opportunity, of faith and hope for more of the same, is more powerful than any sorrow on earth, and I take shelter in it and smile, because this is my life, and I am blessed by grace and for grace alone.

Joy pervades, and my heart sags with the lovely weight of it. My eyes fill with tears of thanks and I smile, knowing there is much more ahead."

Lessons Learned

2008-04-19T13:54:00.002-05:00

Well, it's a bit of an understatement to say that Spain has been the most challenging, exciting, educational experience of my life. I'd like to share with you some of the things I have been enlightened to, in hopes that you will learn something, too. Here is an excerpt from my journal, titled "Things I Have Learned in Spain".

- Fight to always be amazed and never apathetic.
- "No pasa nada." Worrying about something NEVER makes things better, it just wastes time.
- Do not be wasteful (with food, electricity, water, etc.). However, it is perfectly acceptable to have a three hour lunch and then take a nap in the park.
- Be passionate, but quick to both forgive and seek forgiveness.
- Be kind to foreigners and show them extreme grace and understanding.
- Children need discipline.
- I will choose darkness over light, if only because I am lazy. I must be discplined and obedient.
- Always, always, always love. People are hard to love. Love them anyway.
- Fight ethnocentrisity and fight it hard. America is a fantastic country, but there is much, much more to see and experience in the world.
- Be aware of the difference between action out of wounded pride and the true time for assertiveness.
- The experience of missing something or someone points to a worthwhile life and meaningful experience.
- Different is not always better or worse, it's just different.
Don't let people, circumstances, or a bad attitude keep you from having the time of your life.
- Bloom where you're planted. Make the most of the time you've got regardless of your surroundings.
- I believe in God because my soul longs for Him and His deepness, beauty, and truth. My soul knows He is the best way and the best thing and cries out for more.

Paseo del Prado

2008-04-15T16:22:00.024-05:00

I found one of my new favorite places the other day- El Paseo del Prado. It's a long avenue lined with museums, shops, restaurants, and gardens. Perfect for an afternoon stroll to reminisce on a great, great trip.

El Museo del Prado

Real Jardin Botanico de Madrid

from my journal on 4/11:

"I feel as though I am swimming through a sea of tulips, because they are everywhere, in every shade imaginable- lilac, deep ruby red, midnight blue, canary yellow, fiery sunset orange. Tulips are my favorite flower, and to be surrounded by so many stirs in me a deep affection for the Creator who sees fit to woo me with such beauty."

"The air is refreshing and still, and I am at peace as the perfume from countless flowers beckons sweetly. I walk on into the deep, cool green as Sufjan Stevens, Feist, and Rocky Votolato serenade me into serenity."

"The statues here are made of smooth gray stone, and they are stoic, respectable, their gazes dignified and resolute. But at night, I'm sure they slip down from their tall, ivy-covered pedestals and frolic through the gardens. How could they resist? I envy them that."

"Josh Rouse sings that "Love is gonna find a way," and he's right, of course. I believe him. But how could I not when I'm surrounded by so much of it?"

Atocha Station

There's a rainforest inside Atocha Station, filled with turtles, lizards, and birds. I kept expecting dinosaurs, too, but they must have been hiding.

I am captivated by this city.

Nice to Meet You

2008-04-10T15:49:00.007-05:00

Allow me to introduce you to the other kids that I teach in addition to Chloe, Victor, and Felix.

Suma and Maga came from India to Spain when they were seven years old. They are awesome girls and I have loved getting to know them. They don't speak much English, and I don't speak much Spanish, so this has been a learning experience for all of us, made possible with my amazing Spanish/English Dictionary and enthusiastic hand signals. Hopefully I've managed to teach them a little bit. They've definitely taught me.

When I told their mother how soon I will be leaving, but that I might return this summer, she nodded vigorously and said "Ojala," which means "God willing." I love when people say "Ojala."

The Garcia Family: Maria, Harry (the huge dog), Guillermo, Maria.

Miguel Garcia

Miguel, me, Guille, Maria.

The Garcias have been a huge blessing to me. The kids' mother, Maria, is such a sweet woman who never fails to bring me cafe con leche and an assortment of delicious Spanish galletas (cookies) during our lessons.

Miguel and I have very interesting conversations about futbol, cursing in Spanish vs. English, throwing up, and my incident with the clown the other day. After I told him about it, he began to mimic a clown swinging on a swingset, and said in a horrible creepy voice, "Hello, Cait. You want be my friend?" It was hilariously awful. The twins and I constantly play "Go Fish" and it is so much fun. Guille has an awesome sense of humor and Maria is super sweet.

Maria gave me some chorizo y jamon serrano to take home with me. She also invited me to come stay with them in their beach house in Alicante this summer, which would be amazing. She constantly talks about my sonrisa (smile) and calls me alegre. I asked Chantal about the translation for alegre- it literally means "happy," but Miguel told me it means more than that, though he wasn't able to describe it. Chantal said it's like a little girl at the playground, laughing and playing without a care in the world. Like a deep inner joy.

I love that. I love that the beauty and love I have experienced is evident to others. I want to show it more, and I want more of it. I love that the greatest force in the universe pours Himself out in trees and tulips and art and water and sky and sand, always there, always affirming, always showing a deeper and greater beauty than I knew the day before. I love that He has let me be a part of it, and that others can see it in me. It is not mine to claim. Thank You, Thank You, Thank You.

Still Alive, Still in Spain

2008-04-10T15:23:00.005-05:00

from my journal on 4/4:

"What a great time I had with Mom- Sorolla, cafe, pizza, talking, hotel, walking. It has been such a blessing to be able to meet up with her. I can't believe my time here is almost at an end. Impossible! Ugh, how bittersweet. What a treasure and joy this experience has been, Lord.

Thank You for moments like right now- sitting on a park bench in the sun under a corridor of trees at Plaza de Espana, stomach full of gratis cafe con leche y croissants thanks to Jose (one of the older men who works at the hotel bar). He offered to rent a room to me for cheap thirty minutes outside of Madrid for when I return. This was an interesting conversation, because at first I completely misunderstood and thought he meant rent a room for thirty minutes- needless to say, I was outraged and shocked that my friend would suggest such a thing, and was not sure what to do next except look for a hotel manager. Jose went to find one of his hotel buddies who speaks English (broken English at best) and the issue was resolved fairly quickly. As frustrated as I am with my inadequate Spanish it sure does make life interesting sometimes.

Walking to the hotel last night, the sun was setting and a cool breeze was coming with the dusk. I closed my eyes, still walking (in a move that I thought was quite daring), and let the coolness of the evening wash over me, savoring the feeling and smiling at the fact that I'm alive and still in Spain, if only for a little while longer."

A Spanish Soundtrack

2008-04-10T13:24:00.009-05:00

if you know me well, you know i love music, and that i especially love making playlists. soundtracks, if you will, for various times and stages of my life. well, Spain has been no different, and i have spent the past few months noticing that certain songs fit ino certain parts of my day and seem to make me more aware of my surroundings- the people, the scenery, the culture of a city that is very much alive.
i think anything that makes you look around and pay attention to life is important, and id like that share that with you. so if youre interested in taking a more intimate look into my time in Madrid, or even if you just want some new music, read on, and enjoy.

Bus Playlist
"Ring of Fire" Johnny Cash
"Rains in Asia" Jump
"Whistle for the Choir" The Fratellis
"Sea Shell" Seabear
"Past in Present" Feist
"Roundabout" Axe Riverboy
"Chicago" Sufjan Stevens
"Silver Lining" Rilo Kiley

Rainy Sunday Morning Playlist
"Long Way Down" Guster
"#41" Dave Matthews Bans
"Love Will Come Through" Travis
"Float On" Modest Mouse
"Gospel Song" Magnet
"Wild Horses" The Rolling Stones
"Keep It Loose, Keep It Tight" Amos Lee

Metro Playlist
"Don't Panic" Coldplay
"Wires" Athlete
"Sing" Travis
"Maybe Tomorrow" Stereophonics
"Son of Gold" David Vandervelde
"Writing's On the Wall" Album Leaf
"Could You Be Loved" Bob Marley
"Tourist" Athlete
"Title and Registration" Death Cab for Cutie
"Come, Oh Come Emmanuel" Joshua James

Walking Playlist
"Take Me Out" Franz Ferdinand
"Dirt Off Your Shoulders" Jay-Z
"My Moon, My Man" Feist
"Pieces of the People We Love" The Rapture
"Use It" The New Pornagraphers
"My Doorbell" The White Stripes
"Beautiful Collision" David Crowder
"Jumpin' Jack Flash" The Rolling Stones
"Reset" Mutemath

"The days, days, days..

2008-04-07T04:47:00.031-05:00

run away
like horses over the hills"
-U2, "Dirty Day"

How is it that time manages to slip away so quickly? The days have indeed been racing past me lately, and it is all I can do to reach out, grasping blindly, and hope that I'll manage to grab something solid. There's too much to see here, too much to do, but never enough time, and I've prayed for the strength to keep up. That's not a complaint- I would never complain about my time in Spain, it has been the best thing I've ever done, but it sure is awfully bittersweet at times. Using pictures and words, I'll fill you in briefly (and by briefly I mean not so briefly) on what has been happening the past few days.

Look at those little fools! What are they doing? I was walking to the Metro from my house one day last week when I stepped over a slowly wriggling rope laying on the concrete. What?! I was forced to stop, turn around, and bend down to the ground. A slowly wriggling rope? Nope, caterpillars. Hundreds of caterpillars, making a long line that trailed off deep into the forest and ran alongside the highway. Even more interesting- these are the dreaded caterpillars that managed to lodge bits of themselves in Felix's eye last year.
Where were they going? How did they know how to get there? They were following one lead caterpillar and were lined up end to end as far as I could see. I was fascinated, and must have sat there for about 10 minutes. Since I'm sure that even in Spanish society it is looked down upon to sit on the side of the highway staring transfixed at a bunch of bugs, I got up reluctantly and left. Also, their behavior reminded me a bit of the spiders in Harry Potter and The Chamber of Secrets, so it was probably best that I left when I did. If you don't know what I'm talking about then we're probably not really friends.

I told Chloe about this later and she looked at me like I was a freak. I must have been really excited when I was telling her about it. These critters and their conga-line tendencies are apparently a normal occurrence in the area where I live. Chloe calls them procesionales, after the great processions of Semana Santa, which I thought was really funny. I asked her why they acted this way, and she again looked at me like I was mental and said, "I do not know, I am not a worm!"

Next story. Walking home from Metro Norte late one evening, I passed a playground, which are ALWAYS creepy at night. I am always on pretty high alert when making the Walk of Shame, especially when it's dark, and even moreso now that I know a certain Homeless McGee lives down in the gully by the Metro. I rarely ever see other people when making this walk at night, but as I passed the playground, I saw someone, and it made me jump out of my skin. A shadowy figure, leaning against the chainlink fence. Just leaning there, not moving, just waiting (for me?? to kill me??).

I took a few deep breaths and walked past, holding my head high and looking straight at the person, daring them to come closer. I came close enough to see that it was not, in fact, a person, but a CLOWN. A freaking CLOWN in a PLAYGROUND in the dead of NIGHT and i am alone and defenseless and I would almost rather it be a person than a clown. "Oh, fudge," I say out loud in a quiet voice, half in relief, half in still very real horror. Except that I didn't say "fudge."

I kept waiting for the clown to move, because it was obviously just biding its time, and then it would throw itself against the fence and hang there like a giant spider, laughing maniacally, and I would be petrified with terror, unable to move. Maybe I have an overactive imagination, but I was sure that this was going to happen.

Also, now I know that there are two of them. They don't look so bad during the day, but at night it's basically the scariest thing you've ever seen. I have not made the Walk of Shame at night since.

from my journal on 4/2:
"I made 4 pizzas for dinner last night. I think that's what I was supposed to do but I'm not sure. Chantal was going to a meeting (late of course), and was throwing pans and ingredients everywhere. She gave me 4 bags of dough, enough for one pizza each. Was it too much to assume that I was to make 4 pizzas? I'm not so sure. Chloe helped me, and we had a lot of fun. We made tuna pizza. Why not? It was good. Spanish tuna is better than American tuna for some reason. Chloe thought she would be clever and put a lettuce leaf under some tomato sauce to trick me into eating it. "Don't look under that tomato sauce right there!" she said. So hilarious. I do love these kids. Thank You, Lord."
(update: I was NOT supposed to make 4 pizzas. Last week we ate pizza every single day. It was goooooood.)

later that day..

"Katie, Erin, and I had a great day strolling through Del Prado and having a lunch of bocadillos y Pepsi outside the Reina Sofia. The sun was warm, the breeze was cool, the company was great, and a young man was wandering up and down the scatterings of tables and chairs at the various outdoor cafes in front of us, playing a clarinet for tips. The music drifted over us, settling in our souls.

We talked about what an accomplishment Spain has been- how it has developed such a sense of independence and confidence in each of us. But the time is coming to go home and now develop our responsibility. Katie and I are fighting this- we don't want to go home. Every so often, we look at each other and make this noise that communicates our frustration about our immiment return, and I am reminded, ironically, of the first week we were here, when we would look at each other and grin like idiots over the good fortune of finding ourselves in Spain. Even so, I am thankful. Eternally, unspeakably grateful."

taking a rowboat out on the lake at Buen Retiro. Rowing is hard work!

Where else but in Spain can you get alcohol at McDonald's? I hate beer. I HATE it. I forgot about this simple fact because I was so caught up in all the excitement. After one sip, I thought I was going to die. However, I definitely did not want to waste it, so I freaking chugged it in two huge gulps. I've never regretted anything so much in my whole life. (A bit dramatic, I suppose it really wasn't that bad, except that it really was that bad.)

I went to Victor's basketball game a few weekends ago. It was fun and he did really well. That's him in the very center. We're currently reading Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire. I swear, I've created a monster with this kid. He loves Harry Potter so much, and that is OK by me. The new HP movie comes out on Vic's birthday!

Felix lost a tooth. This tooth has been loose for quite some time now, and he has tried everything to get it to come out, even bashing it repeatedly with a rock. I was enlightened to a bit more of Spanish culture with this occurrence, as the Spanish do not have a tooth fairy, but a rat, that comes and removes the tooth from under the pillow in exchange for some money. You're probably thinking- "That is disgusting! Diseased vermin crawling over you while you sleep, what a deranged idea." But that darn rat brought Felix a 2 euro coin, and I am nearly flat broke again, so I might just find a rock of my own and see if I can get that little fleabag to pay me a visit.

Chloe is now into modeling and uses the Metro as her personal runway. I absolutely adore her and want her to come live with me.

Choco Crack is my new favorite cereal. It really gives me that extra boost in the morning.

I made a visit to the Royal Palace, and it was absolutely amazing.

from my journal on 4/4:
"Periwinkle and peacock blues, sea foam and emerald green, dusty rose, swirls of chocolate brown and deepest midnight black, gleaming golds, marigold yellows, scarlet red. More chandeliers than I've ever seen in my life. The most elaborate tapestries, the most detailed frescoes, Goya portraits strewn casually throughout. I've seen some of the finest palaces in Portugal and Spain, but Madrid's is the fairest of them all. Well done."

What a beautiful life.

I spent last Saturday exploring an Egyptian temple (El Templo de Debod).

There is artwork everywhere in Madrid.

from my journal on 4/5:
"What a great day. Lazy hours spent at Debod, lounging against a tree and reading in the shade, enjoying the sunwarmed grass. And now, laying on the chaise lounge on the terrace, listening to the usual church choir of birds and the hardworking rumble of the coffeemaker in the kitchen. It makes me think of Dad and early mornings. I miss him. He is the best man I know.

I slip into the sleepiness that comes with the late afternoon like leaning my head on the shoulder of a good friend. Though I think I am developing a heart murmur from all the coffee I have drunk today, I am happy and warm and content."

Museo de Sorolla

2008-04-07T03:47:00.014-05:00

from my journal on 3/28:
"I am sitting in the garden outside El Museo de Sorolla, a museum filled with the works of Spanish painter Joaquin Sorolla y Bastida. This place is not so much a museum as it is a living memory of the man- the paintings are displayed in his acutal home and studio, and he planned and planted this garden himself."

"The effect is unique for a museum trip- calming, peaceful, an oasis of rest in the heart of Madrid's business district. Cars race by outside the garden walls, but their blaring horns and roaring machinery are drowned out by the gentle splash of a cheerful fountain and the quiet rustling of the trees as they are teased by the wind."

"The house is beautiful enough by itself, even if it was not filled with treasures: a warm buttercream facade with ivory columns and arches, walls inside of deep rust and cool sage, old wooden floors and stairs that creak in greeting, the banisters polished smooth from years of use- this place was a home, and it beckons warmly, inviting the visitor to rest."

Sitting on the bench where i wrote this journal entry.

"The works of Sorolla are fantastic: his use of dappled light, a blending of broad and delicate brush strokes, gentle, swirling colors, and his subject matter- the things closest to his heart, his wife and children, the Spanish people, the seashore, and his gardens- combine to create the heartbeat of the museum. Deep, comfortable, measured, familiar. I love this place."

"I visited the Reina Sofia yesterday, which was a wonderful trip, but the Picasso exhibit left me feeling anxious, claustrophobic, feverish, and uneasy, like being trapped in someone else's nightmare. Modern art just isn't my thing, apparently. Today, the beach scenes and children of Sorolla's artwork were like a gentle breeze on my face. What a joy.

I want to take Mom here, hopefully on her next visit. I think I will come back here on my last day in Madrid. I would like that. Until then, I bid farewell to these gardens and their peaceful greens and soothing blues, to this wonderful house with its inviting warmth and light, and head to La Mallorquina to get some lunch."

A week later, with Mom, at the museum for yet another wonderful visit.

The Snow in Spain?

2008-04-02T15:08:00.038-05:00

Salamanca is one of the most beautiful Renaissance cities with one of the most prestigious universities in all of Europe. We went on a day that turned unbearably cold terribly quickly, and due to unfortunate circumstance, managed to visit the city smack dab in the middle of siesta (curse you, siesta! you make things so inconvenient!), but we still managed to have a great day. Another great day in a long string of great days. They just keep coming and coming and coming...

Casa de Concha (House of Shells)

Outside the Convento de San Esteban
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This style of font is used on nearly every building in the city. Salamanca is called La Cuidad Dorada (The Golden City) because the many sandstone buildings give the city a beautiful golden glow.

Salamanca's Plaza Mayor, originally used for bullfights.

Hooligans.

Somehow, I managed to lock myself in the bathroom stall and was a teensy bit afraid we were going to miss our bus. The girls laughed at this and said good naturedly that I was the one locked in the bathroom, not them, and that they would make the bus just fine. Thanks, amigas.

I'm free! Luckily I managed to bust out without doing too much damage to the door. We left that death trap of a restroom, boarded our bus, and then...

magically...

SNOW!!!

What's that, friends in Dallas/Denton? What's that you say about getting however many inches of snow? Well guess what- I'm in freaking SPAIN and it's SNOWING, SUCKAS!! What more could you ask for, really?

from my journal on 3/22:

"I am sitting on a bus coming hom from Salamanca, a beautiful city about 2 hours from Madrid. It is snowing- HUGE flakes. The trip today was short but fun. The weather has not been on our side, but I don't mind now: the bus is warm, my stomach is full of tortilla de patatas bocadillo, and I'm listening to the "Once" soundtrack. Perfect music for a day like today.

Now rain is spattering the window and making the scenery outside run by in long liquid streaks. My body is exhausted, my knees feel ruined for good, but my spirit feels as light and clean as the fresh snow outside my window.

What a calming thing: to watch the countryside roll by, now shrouded in mist that covers everything like a thin silver veil, and to know, once again, that I am blessed beyond reason and compare, and that it is one of my deepest responsibilities to enjoy and give thanks. Thank You, Lord. There are no other words."

An Afternoon in Cordoba

2008-04-01T15:30:00.035-05:00

After a few days in Seville i made a stop in Cordoba on the way back to Madrid and had one of the most pleasant afternoons in recent memory. Cordoba is such an interesting city, filled with very visibly striking reminders of both the strong Christian and Muslim influence that has been over the city for centuries.

One of the Christian Kings, i presume, guarding the entrance to the Castle of the Christian Kings.

The tower at the Mezquita (Spanish for mosque).

Beautiful forests of pillars inside the dark and cool Mezquita.

from my journal on 3/21:

"I am in the great Mezquita de Cordoba and it is inspiring. The tower outside is breathtakingly tall, the walls around the cathedral unmistakably Islamic in design.

The courtyard is lined with trees, paved with stone, and filled with people. Being in here is like being transported to another realm- it is dark and there is a sharp chill in the air that settles over everything and slows you down. The curved ceilings and archways combined with the bite of the cool bring to mind the idea of being inside an ancient cave, filled with secrets and treasures from long ago.

The collision of the ornateness of the Christian design and the clean geometry of the Islamic style is startingly bizarre and somewhat visually overstimulating at first sight, but the contrasting architecture points to the unique history and culture of yet another awe-inspiring city in my beloved Spain."

The Mezquita was captured and recaptured by Muslim and Christian armies several times, which explains the stark constrasts in architectural style inside.

An atrium i passed as i was walking along a random street.

Cordoba's synagogue. It is the only synagogue remaining in Andalusia after the expulsion of the Jews in 1492 and one of only three left in all of Spain.

one of my favorite Spanish words.

countryside on the way back to Madrid.

i finally got a picture of one of the bulls! these giant billboards are all over Spain.

beautiful, beautiful, beautiful Spain.

Sevilla Durante Semana Santa

2008-03-30T15:17:00.044-05:00

Seville is the fourth largest city in Spain and the economic and artistic capital of southern Spain.

Seville during Semana Santa is an incredible, once in a lifetime experience that allows you to dive headfirst into the heart and soul of Spanish culture. Semana Santa (Holy Week) is celebrated the week leading up to Easter by the procession of pasos (floats covered in elaborate design with candles and flowers, depicting Jesus Christ or Mary). The processions are led by marching bands and the famous hooded figures (from which the KKK took their inspiration), called hermandades (brotherhoods).

The pasos are extremely heavy and are usually carried by 20-50 men, who have the task of carrying the huge thing for hours, setting it down at specific moments, then, altogether, jumping upwards, their feet leaving the ground with the effort, and continuing on their trek to the main Cathedral to the boisterous applause of the crowd.

You know something big is going down when you arrive in Seville and this is the first thing you see..

I've never seen so many orange trees in one place- they line almost every street.

Plaza de Espana during one of the frequent rainshowers of the trip.

A garden I spent some time in after it rained.

from my journal on 3/20:
"Sevilla is fantastic! There are orange trees lining every main street, and their scent is like the sweetest, most alluring perfume. I am in the Alcazar's garden, having just visited the Catedral de Sevilla and climbed to the top of the tower, rain pouring down and adding an even stronger sense of weight to the already solemn setting. Every surface outside is wet and glistening, and the many trees and ivy in this garden are shimmering with the rain-bright gleam of the afternoon shower.
Some kids in front of me just started an impromptu game of futbol with one of the many oranges littering the ground. Someone is clacking a pair of castanets in the distance, doves are cooing contentedly in a nearby tree, there are giant palms standing sentinel behind the castle walls, and the scent of orange blossoms is everywhere. What a magnificent city."

Torre de Oro

Every now and then you would see a nazareno walking through crowds on their way to one of the churches to prepare for the evening's procession. I know it's silly and a bit ignorant, but seeing them on the street took my breath away because I couldn't help but think of the Klan. It was quite spooky, really.

The beautiful Catedral de Sevilla

Look at the front angel's body- I was told that that is the largest pearl in the world.

It is said that the flamenco in Seville is the best in all of Spain.

Traditional dress worn by women on Maundy Thursday, called La Mantilla (the mantle).

The beginning of the procession, led by the Cruz de Guia (Guiding Cross).

Penitentes making public penance.

I am definitely smack dab in the middle of the procession at the moment. I had to cross the street, and it was almost impossible, but it wasn't disrespectful to do so, don't worry. Kids run up and down the street, constantly pushing their way into the procession to try to catch wax from the long candles so they can make these giant balls of wax. It's nuts.

The whole city is basically shut down on Maundy Thursday- I stayed up fairly late to watch the processions and then left the hostel at 5AM to catch my 7:30 bus to Cordoba and the processions were still going strong. In fact, I think more people were out in the early hours of the morning than they had been the night before, and they were really raising a ruckus, cheering and applauding as the pasos edged along the street like a herd of huge lumbering animals.

Seville was a great, great trip. I am so grateful for the chance to really embrace a foreign culture and become so immersed in it, especially one as rich and intriguing as Spain's. What a sweet blessing.

Bartttthhhhhelona

2008-03-24T08:21:00.037-05:00

Barcelona (pronounced Barthelona if youre from Madrid) is a creative, artistic, vibrant place and the second largest city in Spain.

Plaza Real, where lime green parrots swoop from palm tree to palm tree and cause an amazing ruckus.

Las Ramblas, where painters, street performers, and the most random vendors you can imagine gather and combine to create an incredibly unique and enjoyable atmosphere, perfect for afternoon strolling and enjoying life.

The Barcelona Cathedral

Coming across this scattering of light from the stained glass windows was such a wonderful surprise: the gentle glow of jewel tones across the stone floor did little to diminish the somber setting of the majestic cathedral and instead added an air of mysticism and wonder.

the Cathedral's cloister, which offers apparently drinkable water

La Sagrada Familia was designed by Gaudi and started in 1882. It is projected that it will be completed in 2026.

Park Guell, also created by Gaudi.

The Magic Fountain of Montjuic

Arc de Triumf

Santa Maria del Mar Church

We were lucky to stumble into this cathedral on a Sunday morning, and were immediately swept away: I remember being wrapped in a welcome warmth scented with the smell of melted candle wax, stained glass on every side, and we wondered if the church was preparing for a service, as it was relatively early on Sunday morning. Slowly, the archaic sounds of an organ began to fill the high arches and empty space of the cathedral and a woman's voice, operatic, reverent, and beautiful, floated down over us. Then, quiet. A peaceful silence settled over the pews and worshippers like soft snow, and we slipped out of the cathedral, feeling blessed to be a part of something so intimate.

Barcelona is an amazing city, and further evidence of a Good Designer, because there is just too much good in the design for it to be there on accident.

Oh, Portugal...

2008-03-12T08:43:00.047-05:00

...you have captured my heart and ensnared my senses.

Lisbon

Rossio Plaza, the site of our amazing hostel. what a fitting way to start the day- to wake up in the sunshine, step outside into a bustling square, and start your day with Love.

Lisbon's triumphal arch, Rua Augusta, in Comercio Square.
blue and yellow.

Jeronimos Monastery

The Monastery was built in 1502 to commemorate Vasco da Gama's journey to India and to give thanks to the Virgin Mary for his success.

King Manuel I ordered the structure to be built on a site where Vasco da Gama and his crew spent the night in prayer before the voyage.

Thus, the style of architecture is called Manueline, and sought to glorify the great discoveries being made during this time in Portugal's history.

The tomb of great Portugese poet Luis de Camoes.

The cloister.

from my journal on 3/1:

"Lord, i am in Portugal and i am happy. What a beautiful, tranquil, amazing place. I sit on a stone wall, listening to the sound of the ocean lapping at rocky shores, watching sailboats coast by, their white sails dotting the surface of the water under the huge Golden Gate-like bridge, and i give thanks. Thank You, Lord.

To my left is Belem Tower, used a bastion to protect the city against pirates. To my right are three wonderful friends, my travel companions. The sun is warm and the sea breeze is cool. The ocean is whispering a soothing lullaby and the seabirds add their contribution to the chorus. I lift my heart and join in, too, with my song of thanks to the Great Creator of ocean and monastery and sun and life."

Belem Tower

Built in the early 16th century to serve as a gateway to the city and a source of protection.

The tower has also served as a customs control point, telegraph station, lighthouse, and political prison.

The Monument to Discovery

This monument celebrates the Portugese explorers who took part in the Age Discovery during the 15th and 16th centuries.

Henry the Navigator leads the way, followed by cartographers, scientists, artists, writers, and missionaries.

St. George's Castle

The castle dates back to around the 6th century and is visible from almost anywhere in Lisbon.

What a view!

Peacocks roam the grounds of the castle, their colors impossibly beautiful.

Sintra

Sintra is just a 45 minute train ride from Lisbon and is well worth the trip.

View from the Sintra National Palace.

Pena National Palace

Built on the site of a 16th century convent, the Palace is an intentional mixture of eclectic architectural styles.

Styles displayed include Neo-Gothic, Neo-Renaissance, Manueline, and Islamic.

Cabo da Roca

This is probably my most favorite place I have ever been. It was sheer madness to try and take pictures while we were here- there is no way a simple camera can capture the absolute splendor and magnificence of such a place, but I did my best.

This is the westernmost point of mainland Europe, on the very edge of the Atlantic Ocean.

It is ridiculously windy here.

"Hi, America! You have a lot of people that I love very dearly and wish were here to share this with me. Take good care of them. I miss you!"

"Is this place even real?? I don't believe it."

Portugal or Ireland or New Zealand?

from my journal on 3/2:

"Here i am, the most Western point of Europe, on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean, and I am speechless. Thank You, Jesus. Thank You.

Emerald green grass, the roar of the pounding saltbreakers, the blinding glint of the sun on the water, the endless endless endless blue fading to gray and mingling with the sky. Mossy crags and rock speckled with orange lintels and sunbright yellow flowers. I am gazing out over the frigid, steely gray, and as far as my eyes can tell, infinite, Atlantic. The closest I've been to home. The closest i have been to you yet, and you don't even know.

This is the most amazing thing i have ever seen- i say that with certainty and without hyperbole. I miss you."

"Holy Toledo!"

2008-03-06T05:39:00.026-06:00

as usual, i am ridiculously behind on blogging. we went to Toledo February 17th, and i am well aware it is almost a month later. oops. im having trouble getting internet access for some reason, but im doing my best. excuses, excuses, i know. BUT! you have Lisbon, Sintra, and Barcelona to look forward to! AND i will be going to Seville for Semana Santa which will probably be one of the most interesting experiences of my life. so stay tuned.

Toledo: this breathtaking city is known as The City of the Three Cultures, a name which refers to the unique harmony that existed between Christian, Islamic, and Jewish cultures for centuries. Toledo was once the capital of Spain and was also home to the famous painter El Greco.

(i cannot take credit for any of the following pictures. i snatched them all from dear friends Christopher and Mike, who are amazing photographers. enjoy)

hooray! leaving Estacion del Sur to go on a new adventure in Toledo!

Mike taking in the fantastic scenery around the Tagus River.

lovely lady travelers

oh wow, we're high up.

go Spidey, go!

bridge over the Tagus River

Cervantes? or Mike? its hard to tell...

here we are with our new British friend who so graciously showed us around the city. she lives in an amazing flat with the best view imaginable of Toledo (youll see pics later).

we didnt experience the best weather in Toledo, not nearly as pleasant as Segovia- it was bitterly cold and wind whipped at our clothes and faces as we fought our way up steep cobblestone streets- but somehow, the dark, moody weather was perfect for taking in the city, and definitely added to our appreciation of the steaming cafe con leche we would have later.

the view from our new friends rooftop terrace.

me with the Cathedral of Toledo.

tourists, caught in the act!

Toledo coat of arms

The beautiful Cathedral of Toledo

Christopher and Mike in front of the cathedral

inside the Church of Santo Tome after just viewing the amazing painting The Burial of Count Orgaz by El Greco, who lived in Toledo during his later years.

Toledo.

what an amazing city filled with wonders and treasures and history.

we entered Toledo breathless with excitement (and exhaustion due to the ridiculous terrain!), and upon catching a glimpse of the Alacazar overlooking the river and valley, immediately lost our minds with glee, bolted up the nearly vertical cobblestone streets that bit into our feet through our shoes, and ran through the grounds of the castle like schoolchildren, scaling the walls and singing songs from "The Sound of Music" and laughing like maniacs. it must have been an extremely disturbing sight for the people around us, but we were oblivious to their stares, overwhelmed by the searing cold wind, the peircing beauty of the countryside with its quaint houses tucked into the hills, and the intoxicating knowledge that this was a new adventure.

we left Toledo quite the same way we arrived: out of breath and flushed, although not exactly for the same reasons as before- a storm blew up just as we were preparing to leave, and it chased us all the way to the bus station, the wind howling at our backs and fat drops of rain pelting our faces. sprinting through the streets, relishing the fact that we were running just on the edge of the storm, laughing, once again, like lunatics, we made it to the station. unlike our clothing and hair, our spirits remained undampened, because it was the perfect end to yet another perfect day in Spain.

Thank You, Lord, for being the Author of these perfect days.

My Favorite Place in Madrid: Plaza Mayor

2008-02-28T16:27:00.014-06:00

from my journal on 2/8:

"It's Friday, the sun is out, and i am alive and well in Spain.

I sit on a circular stone bench surrounding a lamp post in the heart of Madrid's historic district- Plaza Mayor. I'm listening to Jump, and they're singing longingly of California, India, London- but I am more than content to sit here, in Spain.

There are cobblestones under my feet and sunshine on my face, and I feast gladly on pretzel Goldfish and cereal bars. The Plaza is alive with people eating, talking, enjoying the Spanish sun.

I hear languages- all different kinds flowing together in a loving hum that gives the square a soft movement, the ebb and flow of conversation like some gentle, great ocean. I float along willingly. There are musicians here- a cellist, a percussionist, an accordian player. They add their offering to the ocean.

The paintings on the buildings around me tell a story. I wish I knew what it was. A moment ago, someone nearby was smoking a pipe. The aroma was rich, deep, and filling. The pigeons soaring through the open air add an element of poetry to such a picturesque setting.

A welcome breeze plays wiht my hair, and I close my eyes, enjoying the complementary sensations of the coolness of the air and the warmth of the sun.

I wonder if the statue man is still somewhere behind me. He is painted gold and has something rigged up so that it appears he is riding a horse, mimicking the statue of Felipe III which sits (unmoving) in front of me.

Painters add color to the edges of the square with their creations- a flash of orange here, a stroke of blue there. Reds, pinks, and greens follow.

I am overjoyed to be here. This is wonderful. Thank You, Lord."

Welcome to Segovia

2008-02-22T16:57:00.028-06:00

Ah, Segovia: city of the grand Roman aqueduct, the last great Gothic cathedral to be built in Spain, the fantastic Alcazar (castle-palace), and dead baby pigs that are happily eaten as a delicacy. only a two hour train ride from Madrid, and well worth the trip. as an added bonus, riding the train makes you feel like youre going to Hogwarts!

Church of Saint Millan

the aqueduct, built at the end of the first century by the Romans, who turned the town into an important military base.

the aqueduct was in use until the 19th century, and ive heard it is still functional today and used to bring water into the city from ten miles away. it was built entirely without mortar, meaning the stones had to fit together perfectly, which is absolutely astounding.

yay, Segovia!

poor baby piglet. the meat is cooked in such a way that it is so tender a plate is used to cut it apart.

beautiful Spanish countryside

happy to be alive and in Segovia.

on the way to the castle where we pretended to be princesses. the Alcazar was Walt Disneys inspiration in creating the Cinderella (or is it Sleeping Beauty?) castle!

there we are!

courtyard inside

weaponry room

these guys totally reminded me of my bros- Alex, Samuel, and Daniel. miss you boys!

fantastic view

interesting bit of history: King Ferdinand and Queen Isabel lived in this castle. they were the king and queen who sent out Christopher Colombus!

maybe this is Queen Isabel, maybe its not. i really have no idea. but it sure is beautiful. there are stained glass windows everywhere inside the castle.

the Segovia Cathedral, built in 1525

Segovia's Plaza Mayor- a fantastic place to sit at one of the sidewalk cafes, sip a cafe con leche, take in the sunshine, and thank the Creator for making Spain (and life, for that matter) a playground for our enjoyment and His praise.

this was one of those days you could call perfect, and i hope and pray youve experienced one yourself. the weather was gorgeous, the sights were humblingly spectacular, and the company was excellent.

Mike Howerton, an author ive quoted before who is much wiser and more well-traveled than i, puts words to this day:
"Days like today not only prove the existence of a Creator, they prove a Creator's love of the piercingly beautiful... I no longer believe in the word "coincidence." I know that powers much higher are in control of my life and trying (suceeding rather) at making me one of the happiest and most awe-struck people in existence... I love. I live. I laugh. Is it possible to be more blessed? I wonder."

Amen.

El Rastro!

2008-02-19T06:25:00.018-06:00

welcome to El Rastro: a huge flea market in Old Madrid that was established in the Middle Ages.

you can find just about anything here- new furniture, second hand clothes (including VERY large womens underwear), beautiful ceramics, politcally incorrect records, all types of weaponry, decorative fans, you name it.

do you need a didgeridoo? El Rastro has it.

abanicos galore

need a gas mask or two? El Rastros got you covered.

little old woman playing a mysterious instrument and adding awesomeness to the ambiance of El Rastro

because these are completely necessary...

look closely and you will see one of the rows is marked "Black Music."

its always been one of my great fears to run out of horns. thank you, El Rastro, for putting an end to this fear. what a relief.

its a good idea to follow a morning at El Rastro with some chocolate y churros...

... but BEWARE- this stuff is deadly, and you will most likely die a very painful and horrible death if you eat it on an empty stomach.

FACT: the number one cause of death to Americans in Spain is chocolate y churros on an empty stomach.

i learned this lesson the hard way, and i will NEVER make the same mistake again.

so, maybe Chantal was right about El Rastro, but it really is a fun way to spend a Sunday morning. there is so much to take in, it overwhelms the senses- color, music, people, noise, sunshine.

i am thankful for yet another beautiful glimpse into the Spanish people and their way of life. what a precious, precious gift this time here truly is. Thank You, Lord.

i love you, friends. come visit El Rastro with me.

Walk It Out

2008-02-13T15:12:00.023-06:00

we have so much catching up to do its crazy. as Samuell L. Jackson so famously said in one of my all time favorite movies (you have to guess which one!): "Hold on to your butts."

first things first. may i present to you: The Walk of Shame. or, The Long Walk Home. or, Why, In the Name of Everything That is Holy, Do You Live So Far From Madrid?? enjoy.

Metro Norte is where we begin our journey. Hospital del Norte is the name of this stop, and if you are guapa enough, you do not have to pay for your ticket. suckas.

walking, walking, walking. elapsed time is about 2 minutes so far. see that red sign off in the distance? thats where we are going.

the red sign is getting closer... but this hill just keeps getting longer and longer.

we made it! now we're almost half way home. elapsed time: 12 minutes.

now we get to walk on the side of the highway for a good while. it makes me feel like a vagrant, which is kind of fun, i suppose.

oh look: a metal fence that is right in the middle of where i need to walk. what do i do? crawl under the fence of course. this usually means doing the splits, but most of the time the ground is fairly muddy, so that helps a bit. thanks, mud, for making this hellacious walk that much better.

at this point in our journey, dear readers, i look to my left and see a man peeing in the woods about 10 feet away from me. unfortunately for me, he does not have his back to me, and, even more unfortunately, i am wearing my glasses, so i get a pretty clear view of exactly how everything is going down. i begin to pick up the pace a bit for fear that this man would come after me because he thinks i am taking inappropriate pictures of him. and by pick up the pace, i mean i am in a dead run. at least this means i will get home faster... elapsed time: 22 minutes.

that green bus is the one i take to get to Madrid. we just passed my bus stop (bus stop = patch of dirt), and if you cant tell by the photograph, i am still running, but now i have to duck, too, so i dont hit my head on those low hanging tree branches. what an adventure.

still moving relatively fast. elapsed time: 25 minutes.

hallelujah, ive finally made it to my neighborhood. but we're still a good 8 minutes from home, and this hill seems like it goes on forever. its not so much that its incredibly steep or anything, it just s l o w l y inclines in such a way that by the end of it youre sucked dry of all resolve and have lost the will to live. that kind of hill.

at the top of the hill and begging for death.

i really do live in a beautiful area, but at this point of the walk, i hate everything and my knees feel like they are about to fall off.

getting closer...at this point i am dragging myself along the ground, gasping for breath...

nearly... there...

thank You, Jesus, im home. elapsed time: 33 minutes.

this walk can be pretty miserable, especially when its cold outside, and i have made it once in the dark, but i hope you can see the humor in my words here and not just my silly complaints. i am in Spain, and i love it here, and a 3o minute walk every once in a while is not going to kill me (although my tendonitis strongly disagrees).

thank You, Jesus, that i have legs that work and an Ipod shuffle and the weather here has been beautiful and i live in a gorgeous neighborhood near the mountains and i get exercise every day and i have time to think and my eyes have been opened to the beauty of creation and i am in Spain.

happy walking, everyone.

Introducing: My Host Family

2008-02-11T09:41:00.001-06:00

well, its about dang time you met them.

from the left: Chloe (11), Chantal, Felix (7), Javier, Victor (9). although getting adjusted to living with this family has not been without its challenges (challenges = not strangling Felix), i have so greatly enjoyed getting to know them and figuring out how to love on them. heres some more on each of them:

Chantal
- came to Spain 15 years ago from France to study
- met Javier and they dated for 3 years and then both joined the Army
- volunteered with the Army in Brazil
- has family in France she still visits yearly
- does not get along well with many Spanish women
- total matriarch who completely runs the family
- is a very involved mother who expects A LOT out of her children
- calls me "Khat-leen"
-has a great sense of humor

Javier
- works in international shipping and gets paid in dollars rather than euros
- a quiet, soft-spoken man who is very helpful
- has run with the bulls on many occasions
- travels frequently for work and has gone to Germany twice since ive been here
- joined the Army and went to the Canary Islands

Chloe
- plays clarinet and likes to ride bikes
- likes Italy the best out of all the places shes traveled
- wants to be an architect or actress; originally wanted to be a spy
- does "eurhythmic gymnastics" and is learning German
- occasionally has a teenage attitude
- loves Zac Efron, hates math

Victor
- plays oboe and basketball
- is almost able to do the splits
- likes drawing and pineapple pizza
- loves reading Harry Potter with me
- has amazing handwriting
- enjoys writing in English when it is about Star Wars (we are currently in the process of writing and illustrating Star Wars 9: The Last Sith)

Felix
- is OBSESSED with Star Wars
- loves to learn new languages (French, English, Italian, Mandarin Chinese)
- likes to cook (especially Star Wars-themed gingerbread cookies)
- plays the French horn, called a trompa in Spanish
- came in contact with a poisonous caterpillar last year and then touched his eye, which led to a terrible infection, and somehow he freakishly still has parts of the caterpillar in his eye
- goes from hating me to loving me in 5 seconds
- is very undisciplined (this is common in Spain) and occasionally tries to strangle me, pokes me in inappropriate places, hits me, and tells me to shut up and that he hates me
- is known to also be very sweet and told me (via a Jar Jar Binks action figure) that he loves me because i am beautiful
- constantly asks me "Do you love me?"

now youve (kind of) met my host family. this trip has so far been probably the greatest challenge of my life, but i am relishing the opportunity to grow, adapt, stretch, and change. please pray that the Lord would reveal new ways for me to show this family His great love and beauty.

soon to come: pics from El Rastro, Plaza Mayor, Segovia, and The Walk of Shame. adios for now.

Can I Get a Hallelujah?

2008-02-10T11:05:00.000-06:00

at this moment i am sitting on my bed in San Sebastian de los Reyes typing happily away on a laptop. A LAPTOP!! thats right, the good Lord has provided me with a laptop. can i get a hallelujah?!?! i am SO grateful. now i can blog when i want, post pictures with abandon, and share my crazy adventures with you in almost real time. it will be as if you are here with me. that sounds wonderful.

youve been patient. here are some random pictures to reward you:

slumber parties in Spain are the best kind of slumber parties

bizarre bug creature people at Carnival

sightseeing near the Royal Palace

i LOVE you.

Blowing Chunks in Spain...

2008-02-07T06:46:00.000-06:00

...is just as bad as blowing chunks in America, if not worse, because youre in Spain. and blowing chunks is the last thing you want to be doing in a place like Spain. yes, i had one of those nights when you beg God for death because your insides are trying to make a break for it via your mouth and it seems like the cool comfort of the toilet seat is your only friend. ugh. im so unbelievably relieved thats over. im finally better, four days later. thank You, Jesus.

well, i just cant seem to keep this thing properly updated, and its driving me crazy not to be able to share the sights and stories ive experienced these past few weeks. if you want to get the gist of what ive done this week, just curl up in your bed and proceed to watch two Harry Potter movies, three Star Wars Movies, Capote (which was excellent), Brokeback Mountain, Apocalypto (which should not be watched with an upset stomach), Peter Pan, and Cold Mountain. that about sums up this week.

this past weekend Mom came to visit! it was so good to see her, even though she was sick (and subsequently passed the virus on to me). i will get to see her again this weekend, and i am really looking forward to it.
on Saturday Katie and i journeyed to watch the Carnival Parade- a relatively new festival that is something like Spains version of Mardi Gras. it really made me miss New Orleans. there were SO many people there we had to climb a gate in El Parque del Buen Retiro to get a view of the parade. we had a great view and saw a lot of crazy things that may have been lost in translation, because i had no idea what was going on- a huge group of men of all ages dressed in cheerleading outfits and blonde wigs, giggling and lifting up their skirts pretending to flash people...people dressed up in all forms of garbage, performing the dance from "A Knights Tale"... a great number of people on rollerskates outfitted from head to toe in red, led by a man dressed up as the devil, linking arms and skating in a synchronized wave... what an interesting experience. i hope to put up pictures soon.
this past Sunday i went to El Museo del Prado, one of the most famous art musems in the world. if you know me, you know that i was in heaven. walking in the stillness and silence past the works of great masters was breathtaking. i saw works from Rembrandt, El Greco (his use of color and shadow is fantastic), and one of my personal favorites, the dark and twisted Goya. google Saturno Devorando a Su Hijo and try not to react. thats what great art does to you- makes you have a gut reaction, feel something, be moved. the atmosphere inside Del Prado was almost reverent- there is something about art that captivates my spirit, and my affections were deeply stirred by the Artist who gifted us with such a precious thing. thank You, Jesus. i hope to visit Del Prado at least two or three more times.

miracle of all miracles, i should be getting a laptop this weekend (thank you, Uncle Eric!!), so maybe Sunday i will get a decent update posted. the girls and i are thinking of going to Segovia on Saturday, which im really excited about. i love it there- there is a castle in Segovia that inspired Walt Disney when he was creating the Cinderella castle. also, King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella lived there- the king and queen who sent out Christopher Columbus. how cool is that?? i love Segovia.

i miss you and love you and have thought of you so much this week. im grateful for you.

"Smile, You're in Spain!"

2008-01-30T06:54:00.000-06:00

hi, friendlies! i miss you. so much has happened lately- i am hating this irregular internet access business. so, if you have a wireless laptop just laying around somewhere, be a champ and send it my way. that would be most helpful. i know its a long shot, but it cant hurt to ask...

want to know what ive been up to? here are some things i will hopefully be able to flesh out later when i get to have a REAL update (including pictures), but for now, here is the drive-by version:

- Seis Cafes con Leches will make you LOCO
- "El Rastro is just a bunch of b******t"- Chantal, Host Mom
- Death by Chocolate and Churros
- The Walk of Shame (documented in PICTURES!!)
- My Ever-Growing Portfolio of Star Wars Drawings
- Workin It on Metro Norte
- Sight-Seeing in Madrid
- Introducing: My Host Family

theres this ad that runs constantly on one of the tv stations here and ive been thinking about it all week. it says, "Smile, you're in Spain!"
i couldnt agree more.

i love this country, and i love you, and i wish you were here to share all this wonder with me. there is this warmth to Spain that penetrates everything and gives me a new kind of energy ive never had before. i think its that Mediterranean lifestyle; that joy and action and thirst for life. and yet....

Katie and i were talking about the time she spent in Russia on a mission trip, and how its so dark there in every sense of the word. you would never associate Spain with darkness. never. this place is positively overflowing with movement and color and sound and beauty.
and yet...

the darkness is still there, its just not as evident as it is in Russia. the people here live with a film covering their eyes; they are living, and living well, but not nearly as well as they could be if they knew the Author of life, the very Artist and Architect who crafted them, lovingly, tenderly, gracefully, purposefully. oh, that Katie and Denise and i would strive to push back the darkness in Spain, not in our power or for our namesakes, but for His and His alone.
amen.

Are You Listo/a for This?

2008-01-25T17:43:00.000-06:00

probably not. here is a whirlwind of an update that will hopefully give you a taste of what ive been up to these last six days in what is quickly becoming my most favorite adventure of my life thus far. i advise you to take this in installments...

day uno:
i sit next to new friend Christopher on the plane. he is awesome and we drink Bailey´s and watch Flight of the Conchords together. the flight arrives around 9ish and i have no idea where Chantal (host mom) is, but eventually, thankfully, we are able to meet up and i am not lost forever in the abyss of the Madrid Barajas Airport. she is a French-Spanish woman and her 7 year old son, Félix, is with her. i meet Javier (the father), Chloé (age 11), and Victor (9) later. much more on them in another entry. we drive in their tiny car to their house in San Sebastián de los Reyes, about 30 minutes outside of Madrid and, incidentally, in the middle of nowhere. there is a sheep farm just off of our street. yes, sheep. the house is 3 stories tall, all the floors are marble, and my room is slightly reminiscent of a college dorm. the ceiling is slanted and, naturally, i hit my head several more times than i should have. the family leaves to go to some party in a nearby village that involves killing seven pigs, the last of which is done in with a bow and arrow. i am intrigued, but exhausted and not quite up for the bloodshed and 70+ people who will be there, so i elect to stay home and take in my new surroundings.

things learned today:
- Félix teaches me how to eat the nuts that have fallen from trees in the front yard
- there is the leg of some unidentified creature (lamb, i find out later) casually hanging out on the kitchen counter, which is totally normal in Spanish culture
- exhaustion and loneliness and fear and depression and culture shock and finding sweet encouraging notes your mother stuck in your suitcase will make you go through a momentary breakdown

the room

the house

the leg

day dos:

i venture outside and take a look around the neighborhood. La Granjilla, the subdivision, is a beautiful place with tree-lined streets, cobblestone sidewalks blanketed in moss, and ivy covered walls. there are mountains to the west; i can see them when i walk to the end of our street. i dont do much today except begin to realize, with both fear and exhiliration (that word keeps coming up again and again) that i am in Spain for the next 3 months. this is my new home.

things learned today:
- leek casserole is not that bad when youre hungry enough
- the leg of lamb that hangs out on the counter is actually delicious
- having to explain the English names for boy/girl body parts to young boys is ridiculously awkward (especially when their mother is present and urging you on insistently), but they will always think it is hilarious
- the Metro sounds like the most terrifying thing on the face of the Earth when it is not adequately explained

the neighborhood

the view

day tres:
this was a milestone of a day if i may say so myself. i ventured alone into Madrid via bus and then Metro with no specific aim in mind other than to take in the city with eager eyes. i ended up in El Parque del Buen Retiro, an incredibly gigantic and equally beautiful park that was once only open to Spanish royalty. im not sure how exactly big it is, but i was there for almost 3 hours and didnt even cover half of it. however, i was walking in circles most of the time looking for El Palacio del Crystal so that might have had something to do with it. i had such an enjoyable afternoon en el parque. the weather was idyllic, and it was the perfect place to sit, read, write, rest, appreciate. i felt as though my soul was giving one long exhale of content. you can rent rowboats to take on the lake, and someone across the water was offering up a playful melody on a saxophone. the sun was soaking into my clothes, the mood was peaceful, and i was feeling generally poetic when all of the sudden a man walked to a tree not 10 feet away from me, dropped trou, and started peeing. i laughed about this for a long time afterwards.

things learned today:
- the exact location of El Palacio del Crystal. also, the stacks of firewood inside are part of an art exhibit, and you will get in trouble if you are too close
- my Spanish is getting better but my English is quickly getting worse
- the Metro is one of my new favorite things and i dont ever want to drive a car again
- the way back home is a 20 minute walk along the side of a major highway and involves crawling under a fence (pictures to come at a later entry, dont worry)
-after 3 uncomfortable and somewhat awkward days in a strange city in a strange country with a strange family who speaks a strange language, a familiar voice will break you apart

the colonnade leading to the lake

El Palacio

grandeur

the lake and colonnade from the front

day cuatro:

Katie called me the night before- hallelujah! so we made plans to meet up today. these plans failed because at this point i had no cellphone and our buses are often late and Madrid is a huge city. it was a huge disappointment, but by now i am rather enjoying this new independence and freedom to go around Madrid doing whatever i want. i decided to visit El Templo de Debod, an Egyptian temple that was a gift to Spain (not quite sure how it got here, but regardless, i love it). its another gorgeous park ideal for people-watching, journaling, and enjoying life. i love watching the little old ladies here: they stroll around arm in arm with their friends wearing fancy fur coats, ambling about at their own pace like they own the city. its so funny. i met el profesor today, and we had our enlightening conversacion. later, i am supposed to meet up with Chantal at the kids´ school , but this proves to be impossible because she gives incredibly vague directions and the school has over 2,000 students enrolled. what a nightmare. i make the 20 minute walk of shame home in the dark and the freezing cold.

things learned today:

- ALWAYS take some kind of coat/jacket/body covering when you go out in Madrid- the mornings and evenings are ridiculously cold even if the day is perfect
- an MP3 player is a must for the Metro

- people in Madrid are incredibly helpful and kind when you need directions

- pondering the possible meanings and applications of "cutting the cord" is a worthwhile endeavor

Templo

Another view

day cinco:

FINALLY i am able to meet up with K&D. i love them and have missed them terribly and our reunion is awesome. i buy a cell phone, we have lunch and catch up, then we settle in at Dunkin Coffee for some Internet time. they play Justin Timberlake constantly there, which may be the main reason we go there so often. what a blessing to be with people who truly know and love me and have done life with me in America and now are doing life with me in Spain! i taught more this day than any other so far this week, and it went really well. Chloé and i watched High School Musical together as part of her English lesson. i never thought i would be so glad to see Zac Efrons girl face and ridiculous side bangs in my life. Chloé and i had a great time singing the songs and i am really enjoying getting to know her. more on each of the kids later.

things learned today:

- cauliflower mashed with cheese and ham tastes AWESOME and i am loving the food here

- Heath Ledger died?!?!

- walking everywhere all the time + the wonderment of being in Spain + jet lag = exhausted body but racing mind that makes it impossible to sleep at night

- 5 days of only trying to speak Spanish means broken English with strange accents
- you can see someone get pickpocketed before your very eyes and still not be exactly sure of what you saw

- if you hang around in the Metro long enough you will get to hear whatever kind of music you want becuase of the variety of musicians there- violin, accordian, tribal drumming, pop, accoustic... did i mention that i LOVE the Metro?

accordian man on the Metro

thanks for the Internet and regular dose of Justin, Dunkin Coffee

day seis:

another beautiful day in Spain. the weather this week has truly been perfect. i really do love it here- i wake up whenever i choose and then take a bus to one of the liveliest and most culturally rich cities in the world? is this really my life?? thank You, Jesus. today i felt very convicted about being swept away in all the adventure and romance of this new life in Spain and forgetting to love my host family like Christ. however, there were so many random opportunities to share the love and grace of Christ today i was stunned and grateful at how easily the Lord the moves when He chooses. Félix and i talked about the sunset and who made it: "God," he said. "Yes, and Jesus," i added. "No," he retorted, "Jesus wasnt there when the world was made." i tried to explain a little more, but seeing as how Félix can sometimes be a terror and i didnt feel like debating the theology of the Trinity with a 7 year old, that conversation was over. but Chloé asked me randomly what i believe about religion and that led to a short conversation before dinner. i am praying fervently for more opportunities to share the Gospel, only occasionally in words.

things learned today:

- fresh bread is delivered daily to the house and hung on the outside gate

- nudity (on tv, in advertisements, in super raunchy magazine stands on the streets) is not a big deal here

- academics:Spain as beauty pageants:America. the kids are studying and going to school NONSTOP

- in Spain it is rude to sit at the dinner table and not eat with both hands in plain sight

- this is not my adventure, but merely a story written long ago that i was invited to play a small part in

señoritas after lunch in front of D´s orange vespa

day siete (today):

today was really just a laid back day of figuring out budgets (Denise, you are a monetary and mathematical genius), setting routines, and eating delicious toast and coffee in the cutest cafe for 2 euros. things are starting to become more familiar, but still, every now and then we just start grinning like idiots at each other, and we all know what it means without speaking: "Seriously?? Are we really in Spain?"

i love it here.

i love it.

i.love.it.

i. l.o.v.e. i.t.

get it?

things learned today:

- ugh. i dont have very much money.

- ugh. bus and Metro tickets are expensive and February needs to get here so i can use an abono pass (unlimited monthly ticket for all forms of transportation)

- Mom will be here next weekend!!

- the Del Prado and Reína Sofia (world-famous art museums) are free on Sundays from 9-2

- Madrid (especially the Cibeles, Castellana, Gran Víá area) is breathtaking at night

the symbol of Madrid- the bear and the madroño (strawberry tree)

notice how i am in complete anti-pickpocket mode with my purse and not at all in fun-touristy-picture taking mode. oh well.

Katie and i getting lost somewhere by Sol

beautiful Madrid

its 4AM here. good night... morning. i love you.

I'm not dead! I'm alive! And I'm in Spain!

2008-01-24T07:44:00.000-06:00

¡hola amigos!

well, im here. today is day 6 and i am loving Spain so far. there is so much to tell you... but i dont think now is the time. im in an internet cafe (a Dunkin Coffee... as opposed to Dunkin Donuts), and i only have an hour. trust me, that is not enough time to give you a proper update. also, i am not able to upload pictures, and pictures are a necessity in global storytime. soon, i promise.

Spain is a vibrant country, full of life and beauty and energy. the people here are wonderful- helpful, kind, gracious, passionate. i am enjoying this immensely, especially now that i have met up with Katie and Denise. those first four days alone were definitely interesting, and necessary, i might add. i feel like a different person.

mini-story/something to ponder: Tuesday i met a man in the park at El Templo de Debod (google it, its beautiful) and we had a good 15 minute long chat in broken English and Spanish, which is always entertaining. he asked me what i was doing in Spain; i told him i wasnt really sure yet, but i had a few ideas. it turns out he is a psychology professor at a nearby university. we talked about psychology for a while and how i might want to be a counselor someday.
he told me that sometimes people travel away from home to escape from their family, and in doing so, eliminate mental illness. he made some kind of cutting motion, like he was using scissors, and said, "Umbilical." he asked me what i was trying to cut ties with. i told him my thoughts, and he understood. that idea has been on my mind the last few days, and i think el profesor de psicología was on to something. i already feel like things are different in the best way possible, like i am different. i like that, and i am so glad to be here.

thank you, for helping me get here. and thank You, Lord, for the wonders these eyes have seen in this handful of days so far.

te amo.

Take a deep breath and jump on in...

2008-01-17T23:10:00.000-06:00

it is so surreal to know you are on the eve of something life changing.

to know that i am about to embark on something great and different, and from here on out, i will not (cannot) be the same person i was before. maybe thats a little dramatic, but i think there is a lot of truth to that thought.

this week ive felt like ive been teetering on the edge of some great precipice, looking down and feeling dizzy with exhiliration and vertigo.

i can choose: fall with desperation, grasping at nothingness with flailing arms, or jump willingly, relishing the breathlessness and the whip of the wind.

you better believe im jumping.

Update

2008-01-07T11:55:00.000-06:00

hello all! we are t minus 11 days from departure, and the nerves are definitely kicking in. Denise and Katie, two of my best friends who are also going on this adventure, have been feeling them too.
what do we have to be afraid of? yes, this is a drastic new change, and uncertainty, loneliness, and discomfort are sure to arise, but it seems the Lord has been in this from the very beginning, making this process go as smoothly as possible and directing our steps at every moment. thank You.

i have some very interesting information to share in light of a conversation that crossed numerous time zones yesterday. my new friend Tep (Stephanie) has lived in Madrid for the past few years and is the director of SyncroNations, a culture and language exchange that focuses on building relationships between Spanish university students and young Americans studying or traveling abroad in Spain.
through sports, intercambios (language exchange), attending classes together, and hanging out on campus and around the city, SyncroNations hopes to build authentic, agenda-less relationships through which the love and beauty of Christ can be communicated in a genuine way. i am incredibly excited to find out more about what the Lord is doing with this group and look forward to being a part of it very soon.

here are some things i learned from my convo with Tep:

less than 1/2 of 1% of Spaniards are evangelical Christians
Spain is traditionally Catholic, but most Spaniards will clarify their beliefs by saying "I'm Catholic but I don't believe in God."
realistically, most Spaniards are either agnostic or atheist
spirituality is an incredibly personal and taboo subject in Spain: asking someone about their beliefs is similar to approaching a stranger in the States and inquiring about their sex life
Spaniards have a general apathy toward God; there is no perceived need for Him and they do not see how Jesus Christ could possibly be relevant to them
many view evangelicals as a cult
there is a general distrust of organizations, particularly of the Church, which has had a very dark and twisted history in Spain

Tep said, however, that as spiritually dead as Spain might be, the fingerprints of the Lord are not easily ignored: in their passion and joy for life, in their very deep and loyal friendships, the people of Spain unknowingly give evidence of the very Creator they feel has no relevance to them.

listening to Tep describe the spiritual state of Spain and the desperate hearts that have been numbed by apathy was an eye-opening experience that gave me a new perspective on this trip. my friends and i might be the first Gospel-believing Christians our host families and university friends have ever met. what a heavy, blessed thing- to be gifted with the responsibility of introducing people to the embodiment of grace and beauty and love and justice.

after living in the Bible-Belt for the past 22 years where church is a hobby and most subscribe to a watered-down Gospel and wimpy Jesus this is not an idea that is easy to wrap my mind around.

with a new understanding of the weight of this responsibility i am going to be on my knees much, much more. i beg that you do the same. thank you.

What's next

2007-12-19T10:10:00.000-06:00

hi, friends. well, im all graduated. can you stinkin believe that?? its a bit frightening, actually. and overwhelming and terrifying and suffocating. but its good.

i just read this today and was very encouraged by it:

"In these past few weeks, I’ve realized that the big mystery of college graduation revolves around the question, “What now?” Where have these past 18 years of education brought me? I am surrounded by people asking that same question, and the majority of my friends (including me) have a cloud of Eeyore-like gloom over our heads. We walk around wondering what’s going to happen to us and what we should do with our lives.

We live without concrete answers, and yet our society calls for 9-to-5 decisions. There doesn’t seem to be room for God-inspired passion, and it’s hard to let go of the control we yearn for. We really don’t want to let God take control of all our questions, doubts or entire life.

The truth is that I don’t know what I want to be, but I know what I don’t want to be: a person who holds onto everything and doesn’t let God in. I don’t want to become someone who doesn’t love what they do, who doesn’t enjoy making a difference, someone who lets life pass by without enjoying every moment, breathing in every breath and loving every minute of it. I’m not sure where that leaves me, but I do know that I cannot do this on my own. I’m not built for that. All I can do is trust and hold fast to everything that God has planned for me.

Easier said than done? Yes, but it’s one of those “sky’s the limit” instances where there is no end to God’s amazing love for us. I don’t need to worry about my future plans if I place those plans in the hands of the One who holds the future. I’ll sit back and enjoy the ride, because wherever it takes me, it will be where God wants me to be."
-Lisa Beccera, Relevant Magazine

*sigh of relief*

well i feel better.

an update is coming soon, no worries. theres lots to tell and more to do before January 18th than i care to think about.
but all is well.

Beginnings

2007-12-02T19:31:00.000-06:00

hello friends! i hope, wherever you are, that you are exceedingly well. the purpose of this blog is to provide those who care with a glimpse of my time in Spain. firstly- if you are here, you undoubtedly played a huge part in making it possible for me to have this grand adventure, so thank you. a thousand times, thank you. i am unfathomably grateful.

why am i going to Spain?
why not?
what else does a young female college grad do when she has no clue where the Lord is leading her next? she goes to Spain, of course!! it was silly of you to even ask. :)

a brilliant author named Mike Howerton perhaps says it best:
"I'm working on a philosophy of Appreciation...the central idea is that God (the show starter, the unmoved mover) has given us, for whatever reason, life. Our appreciation of this gift is the appropriate form of worship...enjoy the gift and use it well! Perhaps this is as close to praise as a lost humanity can get... Don't slow. Don't tire. Simply live, and smile."

all around us, there is beauty and truth. i want to find it. i want you to find it. you dont have to look very hard, and you dont have to be in Spain to do it. but the good Lord has provided a way, and i am taking it, with eagerness and anxiousness and wide-eyed wonder. thank you, Lord.

today, i pray you experience simplicity, truth, and beauty through the philosophy of Appreciation. i love you.